Power Tools Rater: DIY Reclaimed Wood Stool

Hi friends! It is Mindi from MyLove2Create, my last project I shared here was my Elevated Planter Box and it has been a big hit this summer! Today I am excited to share my latest build, a Reclaimed Wood Stool.

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Isn’t it fun?!

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You can’t beat the character of reclaimed wood. I used this same wood for shelving in my Teen Boys Bedroom Reveal, it is just so pretty!

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The idea for this stool came from these cute stools I spied in Target one day. I snapped a quick photo, because that is what I do when I want to build something. It is a good thing I did, because I have not been able to find this stool online, anywhere…so I don’t even know if they sell them anymore.

Never you fear! You can make your own, you can use actual reclaimed wood or new wood, either will work!

How To Build A Reclaimed Wood Stool Remodelaholic

How to Make a Reclaimed Wood Stool

click here to get the building plans at Mylove2create

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Supply list:

1- 1×10 board or scraps
1- 1×6 board or scraps
1 1×2 board or scraps
Miter saw
Kreg Pocket hole jig**
Nail gun and nails
3/4” pocket hole screws
Wood glue
Drill
Clamps
Sander
Finishing supplies as desired

*Please note I am giving the dimensions for 3/4” thick wood in the supply and cut list. The wood I actually used is 1” thick reclaimed wood, and it can be more difficult to find, but the cut list can be used for either thickness, or you use a thicker wood too, modify to fit your needs/wants, the true beauty of DIY.

** You can build this stool without pocket holes as well, just pre-drill and using 2 to 2 1/2” screws (more details below).

Cut list:

2- 1×6’s (3/4” x 5 1/2”) @ 17” (Top/seat boards)
2- 1×10’s (3/4” x 9 1/4”) @ 13 1/2” long point to short point. Cut at a 10 degree bevel, ends parallel. (Legs)
2- 1×2’s (3/4” x 1 1/2”) @ 9 1/4″ long point to long point. Cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel. (top apron pieces)
1- 1×2 @ 11 3/4” long point to long point. Cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel (middle support piece)

*Finished stool stands 14 1/2” tall.

Step 1: Select and cut boards

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I started with these pieces of reclaimed wood, the two on the left I picked out to be the top/seat boards, and the three on the right are for the legs.
using-a-kreg-rip-cut-mylove2create To make the legs wider, like my inspiration piece, I needed to rip one of the three leg boards in half for an extension to be added to the two leg boards. I grabbed my trusty tool combo, my Ryobi Circular saw and my Kreg Rip Cut to do the job. If you are using 1×10 boards you don’t need to do this step the wood is the perfect thickness for the legs.

In the top left photo you can see how I have clamped my wood, this will enable me to use my rip cut around the clamp (see top right photo). I set my rip cut so that the board will be cut right in half, and the 2×4 support board is over enough so that my blade will not hit it while I rip the board.

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I set my miter saw to a 10 degree bevel (this is where the saw blade is tilted at an angle). I proceeded to cut the boards at a 10 degree bevel 13 1/2” long point to short point ends parallel.

To test my cut I grabbed a top board and the two ripped boards to try out my legs (right)…looking good!

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Next up, I cut my apron pieces, the ones that attach to the top of the legs and the stool top. I used a reclaimed piece of wood that was about the sized of a 2×4, and cut two pieces (in the plans you will use a 1×2 and eliminate the next step below). To cut “off square” I set my miter saw at 10 degrees (top left) and cut the boards to 9 1/4” long point to long point, ends not parallel.

In the top right photo you can see how I used the first piece to mark where to cut on the second. In the bottom photo, I always like to dry fit my pieces as I build to make sure I am getting the look I want, and then I can adjust accordingly.

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I also used another scrap piece of wood for a middle support board. I cut one end at 10 degrees off square and then placed it with my dry fit and marked where to cut the other end. It ended up being 11 3/4” long point to long point ends not parallel.

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When I did the dry fit, I realized I didn’t like how wide the apron pieces were (which is why I said to use 1×2 boards) I wanted them much smaller. Without my table saw set up I knew it would be dangerous to rip a narrow piece like this on a miter saw, and impossible with my rip cut, so I busted out my jig saw!

I used a scrap piece of 1×2 as my thickness guide, and marked it on my apron (top left). Then I clamped my piece on one end and cut as far as I could with my jig saw. I unclamped it and flipped it around and cut the rest of the line. I followed the same process with both apron pieces. Done, and so easy! And safe.

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Step 2: Create pocket holes

With all my pieces cut it was time for pocket holes! My reclaimed wood was 1” thick and so I need to adjust my Kreg Jig and depth collar on my drill bit accordingly. If you are using 3/4” thick wood you will need to set the adjustments for that thickness.

You can see how easy it is to drill pocket holes with an angled cut, just make sure the cut end is flush to the bottom of the jig when you clamp it in.

Here is a shot of all my pocket holes. The ones on the top of the legs will screw into the top seat board. I did end up adding pocket holes to the middle support board (you can see I sanded off the stain), it looks like I forgot to flip the board over to show them for the photo.

I also want to point out that I had to adjust my screw length to 1 1/2” in order to match my board thickness, this it very important to remember when using a pocket hole jig. Again, if you are using 3/4” wood you will use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws.

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Then I glued and screwed the boards together with my pocket hole screws. I always make sure to clamp my boards in this process so my boards don’t shift while drilling in the screws. The top boards are on the right and the two legs on the left.

Step 3: Assembly

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To build the stool, I started by adding the two apron pieces to the top of one leg, making sure they were flush with the top (top photos). Then I glued and clamped the other leg to the apron pieces and added my screws. I did need to use a shorter drill bit for this, because the space was tight.

I want to note that you can build this stool without pocket holes as well, just pre-drill and screw through the legs from the outside into the apron pieces using 2 to 2 1/2” screws.

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I measured and marked where I wanted my support board on my legs and attached it with my pocket hole screws.

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On the bottom side of the stool seat I measured and marked where the top of the legs needed to be placed. I love using a combination square for quick accurate marking.

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Next, I attached the legs to the seat. I also nailed through the aprons into the seat with 2” nails, you could use screws too.

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I decided to go with a natural vinegar and steel wood stain to help unify the pieces with a nice natural grayish color. On the left I tested it on a scrap piece to see if I liked it, on the right I am applying it to the stool. I have used this same stain on several projects like my Chalkboard Coat Rack and my Marvel Subway Art.

You may have noticed that I filled in my pocket holes with wood filler…I wasn’t entirely sure I should have done that, I think they might have blended better without being filled. Oh well, life lessons, I did try and paint them with some craft paint to try and blend them better, but totally forgot to take photos of that process…but I don’t think I did a very good job anyway. Ugh.

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The cut side of the legs I ripped were also very different in color, but hey, I think it adds character.

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I sealed it with three coats of poly, sanding with 400 grit sandpaper between coats one and two for a nice smooth finish. This shot is by my front door right under the mailbox, and it might be a good home so my kids aren’t moving the porch chairs to get the mail every afternoon!

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I love the rustic live edges…

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And the fun thick legs.

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It could make nice addition to any room in the house. (See more of that pallet letter here.)

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It looks great in my boys room, feature-image-mylove2create

But I might steal it for the kitchen!

It’s a good thing I am not indecisive! (wink wink)

This really is a simple build especially if you use the dimensional lumber I provided in my cut list. You can always get creative with your finish and make it look like reclaimed wood (using a method like this or this or this homemade stain), or just paint it!

Happy Building!

Mindi